Eurotrash Motorsports

Since I ordered the pistons and rods last week (INA Engineering) and am waiting for them to come in so I can bring the engine over to TKRace in MTL I figured I’d throw in the parts list for now:

Engine:
1.8T AWM block – 83mm bore
2.0 AEG crank – 92.8mm stroke
SCAT Forged Connecting Rods
Supertech pistons -83mm/ 92.8mm 20mm pins
OEM:
Crank bolts
Head bolts
Rear main seal
Front Crank seal
Rod bearings
Oil pump
Timing belt + tensioner

Head:
AEB big port – ported and polished
Autotech Adjustable cam gear
Catcams – 3658
OEM:
Lifters
Valves
Seals
Springs + retainers

Turbo:
Garrett GT 3076R / Garrett HTA GT2868R / Bullseye s259 (~1500$)
Tial 44mm wastegate
Tial 50mm BOV
SEM Intake
75mm DBW TB (R32)

Fuel:
Ross Machine Racing billet fuel rail
Aeromotive A1000 or Walbro 255lph
Aeromotive FPR
630cc Bosch injectors

Management:
Eurodyne (TAPP) 630cc maffless file

It was about time…she spent enough time under the snow…

On first looks – piles of garbage inside the car – I had forgotten the amount of random pieces of interior that were left inside…In fact I thought I bought a car without the interior – instead I spent 2+ hours removing stuff from the inside and its still not done…

Here’s a few shots of the car before the work – as you can see the engine’s out already (read below) as its getting a new set of pistons/rods/bearings, getting bored to 83mm and stroked to 92.8mm (2L)….

In true EuroTrash fashion – there’s home-made sausages hanging in the garage :D

A quick look on the inside gave me a little scare…

Well…it had to be done…so I started ripping it all out with the carpet causing the biggest trouble…the brackets holding the dash in the middle are bolted to the frame all the way at the glass making them impossible to undo – some precision bending and elbow grease quickly solved that problem…interestingly enough the padding under the carpet on the Audi is part of the carpet itself as compared to some of the VWs I’ve put apart where the padding is a separate piece under the carpet…. Once the carpet was out it was easy to see that a bunch of water had accumulated underneath – apparently snow goes through car covers…In either case it was good I got the car inside – I’m sure it would have started rusting the interior sooner or later…

Once again – I bought a car with NO interior….(insert Borat NOT joke) NOT!

Once cleaned out – I got access to the wiring…I never thought I’d say this but this wiring scares me :) These cars have major amounts of electronics inside – there’s airbags all the way back to the C-pillar…Anyways – I will need to “edit” the harness of course – the main things to be left are tail lights / turn signals, headlights, dash….

TO DO list for the interior:

1. Complete clean-up (3 more airbags left, some brackets under the dash etc)
2. Extract wiring harness (door connectors, extra controllers, radio all need to be removed)
3. Strip sound deadening material (plenty all over the car – it will need to be removed
4. Remove doors and weight reduce (get rid of the glass / glass controllers etc)
5. Quick disconnect for steering wheel (preferably splined)
6. 2 Racing seats + brackets
7. Racing harness anchor points
8. Reinstall shifter

The good thing is I can work on all of that while the engine is being serviced…The biggest obstacle seems to be the door glasses – I want to keep them for the safety inspections, however I also want to be able to roll them up/down which means I need the mechanisms, which I don’t have…

Check out the Gallery page for more pictures and stay tuned for more info…

This is a quick summary of the 1.8T and its variations…

Audi Engine InfoVW/Audi Engine Info
-058 Block: external water pump
-06A Block: internal water pump
-Displacement: 1.8L (1781cc)
-Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
-Cylinder #1 is next to the timing belt
-All catbacks are 2.17″
-Oil Capacity: 4.6qt (4.35L)
-Head bolt size: 11mm AEB, 10mm all others

Engine dimensions for OE engines:

• Bore size – 81mm (3.19in)
• Stroke – 86.4mm (3.40in)
• Rod Length – 144mm

Engine Code: AWM (found in our project car)
Model Years: 2001-2005
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 170 @ 5900 RPM
Torque: 166 ft. lbs. @ 1950 RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.1
DP Size: 50mm (1.97″)
Turbo: K03s
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)

Engine Displacement Options:

Displacements are as follows:
81mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1781cc (stock)
81.5mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1803cc
82mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1825cc
82.5mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1848cc
83mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1870cc
83.5mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1893cc

Now when you add a 92.8mm (found in the 2.0 AEG motor I am using as a donor) stroke crank to you engine you have the following displacements:
81mm bore x 92.8 mm stroke = 1913cc
81.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1937cc
82mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1961cc
82.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1985cc
83mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2009cc (the goal for the Audi)
83.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2033cc

Engine Mods required to get 20/20:

Crankshaft : AEG = 92.8mm
Connecting Rods : SCAT forged (144mm/20mm)
Pistons :  JE forged (offset pin location)

Luckily, I already have the AEG motor from my 2000 Golf, which means I get the crank for free and I have another block to play with as well….The best part is due to the fact all VWs are like legos, I can bolt on parts from one engine to the other without any issues.

The bottom end is fairly easy to put together. The crank will need to be rotated and balanced, pistons and rods are purchased from INA Engineering in Ottawa (distributor for 034 Motorsports in Cali), gaskets, seals etc can be purchased from local parts stores. At this moment, the head of the engine is questionable. I can use the working head off my Golf, or opt out to rebuild the damaged head from the Audi. I am going to try and finish the build before the winter race season comes along, which means I will likely not have the time to rebuild the damaged head. In the meantime the absolute ideal situation is finding an AEB BIG PORT 1.8T head (found on some Audi/Passats in the late 90s)…This head flows much better than the small port, which also makes it extremely hard to find on the market.
The final part of this project is the Turbo selection. This will actually take more time and thought.

So far I am building the car for track use, which suggests higher HP with an increased turbo lag. However, if the car is to be used for AutoX (lower HP and faster spool), the turbo specked out will not be sufficient. A compromise must be made. The total HP aim is 400WHP. This is not optimistic at all as these engines have been demonstrated to push out up to 700WHP. To get this number a Garrett GT3076R turbo should be sufficient. The increased engine volume will improve the lower end torque and turbo spool. It is possible to need to switch to a GT35 depending on the setup requirements.

And here is the actual shopping list….a few things will be left for later as they are not needed at the moment…

-AEB Head
-Cat 3652 Cams
-Cat Springs
-Rosten Retainers
-Autotech Adjustable cam gear
-JE 8.5:1 compression pistons
-Pauter Rods 
-Coated rod bearings
-New Timing belt, water pump, oil pump, gaskets, etc. All the basic maintenance stuff.
-Garrett GT3076R/GT35 or equivalent Borg Warner Bulls Eye
-Tial 38mm wastegate
- Exhaust Manifold T3
–Tial 55mm BOV
-3” test pipe/magnaflow high flow – dual exhaust setup depending on noise restrictions
-(2) Aeromotive A1000 fuel pumps
-Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator with gauge
-Ross Machine Racing intake manifold and high flow fuel rail
-870cc injectors @ 4bar pressure
- -10AN feed with -8AN return line
-Brand new OEM coil packs NGK 9 plugs
-Lightweight Deka battery with MMP battery box

And 10k later I`m officially BROKE FOR SPEED! :D
Cheers,

Emil

After a long time on the market for a quattro race car, I was lucky enough to find an Audi A4 Quattro that was recently involved in an accident. The car hit a deer going south on HWY416, which damaged the hood and fenders.

At a first glance it didn’t look like very serious damage – due to the nature of the hit, the bumpers weren’t even scratched, airbags did not deploy etc. The insurance, however, deemed it salvaged and the previous owner parted it out. I managed to get to the car just in time before the engine was pulled apart. The 1.8T engine that is in this model Audi is installed longitudinally, which places all the driving belts at the front of the car, immediately behind the radiators. When the deer hit the top of the hood, the damage reached the camshaft pulley, attached to the timing belt. The pulley scattered in pieces, which automatically meant the pistons hit the valves and damaged the head. The 1.8T engine is an interference engine, meaning the pistons and valves occupy the same volume and the timing is crucial to avoid damage to the engine. This is likely why the car was salvaged by the insurance – the damage would cost too much to fix. Not to me though. Luckily, the previous 1.8T engine that was swapped into my 2000 Golf had suffered a very similar damage and I have experience with the problem.

I purchased the car for 500$ and thanks to Shawn’s trailer managed to get her come safe and sound. We then started taking it apart to assess the damage. As expected, the front fenders and hood were completely destroyed and were soon disposed of. The rest of the car, however, was in a fantastic shape. The AUDI bodies are galvanized steel and almost never rust. The exhaust (although useless to me) was brand new, the brakes were new (rusted due to rain now) etc. When we took the engine out, we noticed that the clutch was already on its way, however, we also discovered that both transmission mounts had broken due to the impact at the front of the engine, so they will need to be replaced.

So…here begins the story of the 1.8T….If you follow along you will learn about the 20/20 swap in the works in the “Engine Room” :)

Cheers,

Emil