Eurotrash Motorsports

It’s official, Eurotrash Motorsports is supplying the engine for Glen Clark’s Class 5 2WD turbocharged rally car in the upcoming 2010 Rally Championship season….

The engine was recently tuned by Chris Tapp @ TAPP AUTO and put down 192whp @ 22psi (dyno sheet coming soon)… For the swap engine mounts off the MK2 chassis must be used, however the engine will mount directly to the transmission, making the integration very simple. A new turbo package is still to be selected, however a Garrett GT28rs is the likely candidate, keeping the engine in a low boost lag region while pushing the light MK2 chassis with up to 300whp….

Exciting times are coming….Stay “tuned” ;)

Emil

December 2009

Finally! :)

The work has commenced on integrating the 1.8T engine into Glen Clarke’s MK2 rally dedicated car. Our first event is January 16th, which gives us a very very very tight schedule for such a big job, but in the words of the wise: “It’s no problem!”

January 2010

And off she goes…we finished working on the swap – still plenty of work, however the car had to go to Lindsay, ON for its first road test…we drove it yesterday and noticed a lot of back brake bias, which Glen will adjust with the Wilwood proportioning valve we installed….To make this work we swapped essentially everything from the MK4: engine, transmission, pedal cluster, brake booster, hydraulic clutch, intercooler and exhaust….currently the car is running the 3″ high flow Magnaflow cat, with a straight 3″ pipe after that – the cat is in the rally rule book so we couldn’t toss it….we also ignored the diverter valve for the turbo for now until a proper blow off is can be mounted. The intercooler piping must be redone – I doubt it will hold the 24 psi that this turbo puts out…It also looks like there will be substantial amounts of body work to be done to fit the huge snow tires that Glen got – unfortunately “precision bending” with the hammer is in the close future…

Anyways – enough for now…stay tuned for updates…

This is a quick summary of the 1.8T and its variations…

Audi Engine InfoVW/Audi Engine Info
-058 Block: external water pump
-06A Block: internal water pump
-Displacement: 1.8L (1781cc)
-Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
-Cylinder #1 is next to the timing belt
-All catbacks are 2.17″
-Oil Capacity: 4.6qt (4.35L)
-Head bolt size: 11mm AEB, 10mm all others

Engine dimensions for OE engines:

• Bore size – 81mm (3.19in)
• Stroke – 86.4mm (3.40in)
• Rod Length – 144mm

Engine Code: AWM (found in our project car)
Model Years: 2001-2005
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 170 @ 5900 RPM
Torque: 166 ft. lbs. @ 1950 RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.1
DP Size: 50mm (1.97″)
Turbo: K03s
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)

Engine Displacement Options:

Displacements are as follows:
81mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1781cc (stock)
81.5mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1803cc
82mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1825cc
82.5mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1848cc
83mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1870cc
83.5mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1893cc

Now when you add a 92.8mm (found in the 2.0 AEG motor I am using as a donor) stroke crank to you engine you have the following displacements:
81mm bore x 92.8 mm stroke = 1913cc
81.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1937cc
82mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1961cc
82.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1985cc
83mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2009cc (the goal for the Audi)
83.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2033cc

Engine Mods required to get 20/20:

Crankshaft : AEG = 92.8mm
Connecting Rods : SCAT forged (144mm/20mm)
Pistons :  JE forged (offset pin location)

Luckily, I already have the AEG motor from my 2000 Golf, which means I get the crank for free and I have another block to play with as well….The best part is due to the fact all VWs are like legos, I can bolt on parts from one engine to the other without any issues.

The bottom end is fairly easy to put together. The crank will need to be rotated and balanced, pistons and rods are purchased from INA Engineering in Ottawa (distributor for 034 Motorsports in Cali), gaskets, seals etc can be purchased from local parts stores. At this moment, the head of the engine is questionable. I can use the working head off my Golf, or opt out to rebuild the damaged head from the Audi. I am going to try and finish the build before the winter race season comes along, which means I will likely not have the time to rebuild the damaged head. In the meantime the absolute ideal situation is finding an AEB BIG PORT 1.8T head (found on some Audi/Passats in the late 90s)…This head flows much better than the small port, which also makes it extremely hard to find on the market.
The final part of this project is the Turbo selection. This will actually take more time and thought.

So far I am building the car for track use, which suggests higher HP with an increased turbo lag. However, if the car is to be used for AutoX (lower HP and faster spool), the turbo specked out will not be sufficient. A compromise must be made. The total HP aim is 400WHP. This is not optimistic at all as these engines have been demonstrated to push out up to 700WHP. To get this number a Garrett GT3076R turbo should be sufficient. The increased engine volume will improve the lower end torque and turbo spool. It is possible to need to switch to a GT35 depending on the setup requirements.

And here is the actual shopping list….a few things will be left for later as they are not needed at the moment…

-AEB Head
-Cat 3652 Cams
-Cat Springs
-Rosten Retainers
-Autotech Adjustable cam gear
-JE 8.5:1 compression pistons
-Pauter Rods 
-Coated rod bearings
-New Timing belt, water pump, oil pump, gaskets, etc. All the basic maintenance stuff.
-Garrett GT3076R/GT35 or equivalent Borg Warner Bulls Eye
-Tial 38mm wastegate
- Exhaust Manifold T3
–Tial 55mm BOV
-3” test pipe/magnaflow high flow – dual exhaust setup depending on noise restrictions
-(2) Aeromotive A1000 fuel pumps
-Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator with gauge
-Ross Machine Racing intake manifold and high flow fuel rail
-870cc injectors @ 4bar pressure
- -10AN feed with -8AN return line
-Brand new OEM coil packs NGK 9 plugs
-Lightweight Deka battery with MMP battery box

And 10k later I`m officially BROKE FOR SPEED! :D
Cheers,

Emil

Breaking news -I’ve gone off my meds again and, you guessed it, I bought another car.

Actually, that’s not entirely correct. What I should say is Naresh and I bought a car for snow-x tonight.

We spent the better part of Tuesday evening researching cars and sending out emails. We went to see three cars including the one we ended up buying.

The other two were:

1) A mid 90′s civic. The owner was kind enough to tell us that the shop had “hooked up my VTEC for me” and then referred to his civic as a “sporty” car…..yah -  The worst news is that he has managed to reproduce.

2) A 97 VW GTI. This car was actually pretty disappointing. We were expecting the car to be the “best value” given the price and the potential but this car had a lot of rust, blown struts, and the only lights that worked were the high beams, 1 turn signal, and 1 brake light.

In the end we ended up buying…..

A 1993 Nissan NX1600 with 195k  :) Turns out it belongs to an old friend of mine from high school who sold it to me for half of her asking price.

Check it out.

The car does have a pretty decent exhaust leak. I’ll let Naresh talk about how funny it was sitting in the passenger seat as I rev’d the car up to 5000 rpm.

When we showed up, the DS rear wheel was seized. We jacked the car up, sprayed some PB blaster, and went to work with the hammer (commonly referred to as the gentle persuasion). The parking brake finally gave up and we were in business. The car has two sets of tires too :)

I’ll let N post anything else he’d like to add :)

Check out the Gallery section for more pics.

This week I decided to take some time to remove the sunroof from the BMW to save some more weight.  I first started by going out and purchasing some sheetmetal to screw over the hole.  I went for a sheet lightweight 24 gauge cold-rolled steel.  I then cut it down to size and painted it black. 

Removing the sunroof and headliner assembly was fairly easy – all that was involved was removing some bolts and disconnecting the drain hoses.  But was it ever heavy!  I couldn’t believe it!  There was probably around 40 lbs of weight in that!  Next, using an automotive sealant and adhesive, I ran a bead around the perimeter of the panel before placing it on the roof.  I then used sheetmetal screws to hold it down.  Finally, I ran another bead of the sealant on the outside of the panel to ensure no water or air would get under the panel.

I also decided to get rid of a little more weight in the BMW.  I started chipping out the sound deadening panels that are glued all over the interior of the car.  I was able to get the entire back seat done.  I also removed the entire dash and got rid of more plastic, carpeting, and some sound deadedning that was hidden in there.  The dash it also very heavy, so I’m going to look at building a custom housing for the cluster to reduce the front end weight even more.

Make sure to check out the BMW build gallery for more pics!

Over the winter, Jeff and I were planning on taking a break from racing to save some money and pay some bills.  For the first month, this has gone pretty well.  Unfortunately (well actually, FORTUNATELY), while I was helping setup the snowcross track for the winter series at Capital City Speedway last weekend, I was given a proposition that I couldn’t refuse.

Another MCO member who raced with us this summer, Phil (he drives a 2009 Subaru STI!) was talking about splitting a car with someone to race the series with.  Of course, I couldn’t say no!  So we decided on a price limit and we both started looking.  There were tons of adds for civics, tercels, some golfs, and accords, but the one that really stuck out to us was a 1991 Ford Festiva!

With it’s massive 1.3L engine, it can put out a whopping 63HP and 73 ft-lbs of torque through its 5 speed gearbox.  Keeping those heaps of power on the ground are impressive 12 by 4.5 inch rims.  Our model already came fully race prepped – with half the body panels already painted flat black, a rear wing and a chin spoiler on the front.  Creature comforts include functional heat, lights, wipers, a comfy back seat, and two sets of rims and tires.  The only visible issue we have come across so far is the catalytic converters have been blown out.  For snowcross, who cares!  We’ll rip the exhaust right off!

At the price this car was listed, it was impossible to say no!  I was able to take it for a drive and it ran very well.  Phil has started shopping for some dedicated aggresive winter tires, and we can’t wait to get her ready for the track.  All we’ll need to do is gut a car a bit, and she’ll be ready to race!

Check out the gallery for more pics!